Corrective contouring

The shape of your face

< Correcting a face that's too wide or too round
What it looks like: rather than a perfect oval, a wide face looks short and wide, like a ball.
How to correct it: you need to make the sides of the face narrower by applying Shadowlight Shadow from the hairline at the temples, along the sides of the face, down to the jaw bone, always starting on the outside and shading inwards.

Correcting a long face: >
What it looks like: generally, the forehead is very high, the features are thin, and the chin is long. The effect is a face that looks very narrow, gaunt, and not very harmonious.
How to correct it: You need to shorten the forehead and chin. Shade Shadowlight Shadow from the top of the forehead, starting from the hairline and working downwards. Do the same thing starting from the centre of the jaw and shading upwards.

< Correcting a triangular face:
What it looks like: rather than a perfect oval, the face looks like an upside-down triangle. The forehead is very broad, the jaw narrow.
How to correct it: apply Shadowlight Shadow to the sides of the forehead towards the temples to "squeeze" it widthwise. If necessary, apply Shadowlight Light as well along the jaw to make it the jaw look larger and more prominent.

Correcting a square face: >
What it looks like: a face is called "square" when the forehead and jaw are as wide as the diameter of the centre of the face: the face is no longer oval, but rectangular.
How to correct it: all you need to do is is "file down" the corners of the face with Shadowlight Shadow: soften the jaw by shading the area from the earlobe to the chin and to the sides of the forehead.

The shape of your eyes

Correcting protruding eyes
What it looks like: generally, protruding eyes tend to have a rounded shape and particularly prominent eyelids.
How to correct it: apply Shadowlight Shadow to the entire upper eyelid to disguise the excessive protrusion, then highlight the brow bone with Shadowlight Light to harmonise the area.

Correcting downward turned eyes or droopy eyelids
What it looks like: in both cases, the effect is eyes that look sad and tired because the outer corners of the eyes look lower than the inner corners. If you have downward turned eyes, this is because the outer corner is actually lower. If you have drooping eyelids, the skin above the crease weighs down and "engulfs" the eyelid, visibly pulling down the outer corner.
How to correct it: apply Shadowlight Shadow just above the outer half of the eye crease and shade outwards towards the end of the eyebrow to lift up the outer corner. If necessary, shade along the upper lash line as well, then finish by illuminating the inner corner of the eye with Shadowlight Light.
Correcting sunken eyes
What it looks like: the eyes are deeply recessed into the socket, and so are often in shadow and do not stand out.
How to correct it: make the whole upper eyelid area (above and below the crease) more prominent by applying Shadowlight Light.

Small corrections:
Wide or crooked nose
How to correct it: narrow the sides of the nose by applying a tiny amount of Shadowlight Light, trying the create two parallel and symmetrical vertical lines. Blend thoroughly to make it look as natural as possible.
Double chin
How to correct it: apply Shadowlight Shadow under the jaw, focusing on the area between the chin and neck, shading well downwards.
Flat cheekbones
How to correct it: shade Shadowlight Shadow under the cheekbones, starting from the beginning of the ear and shading diagonally towards the lips (making sure you stop halfway down the cheek), then highlight the top of the cheekbone with Shadowlight Light.

Lip volume
In generally, to increase or alter the volume of the lips, all you need to do is apply Shadowlight Light to the centre of the lower lip and Cupid's bow. The shape of the point of light at the centre of the lower lip alters the shape of the lips: you can try the different suggestions illustrated here and choose whichever suits you best.